Cruising down the Saint Lawrence (Part 1) The Saguenay and Reford Gardens

Leaving Quebec City

The first day of June dawned sunny and mild; a group of stalwart travellers set forth from the Fairmont Chateau Frontenac to explore the beautiful and historic city of Quebec, the only surviving walled city in North America north of Mexico. After some time for sightseeing on our own and a chance to try out one of many local restaurants, we were met by Adventure Canada staff for a transfer to the Ocean Endeavour. There our small group of 22 met the rest of the 179 passengers boarding for the nine-day Adventures Afloat program, Exploring the Mighty Gulf of Saint Lawrence.

There was time to get settled into our cabins before our lifeboat drill and orientation. We set off just after 6 p.m. in a light breeze, passing by Montmerency Falls and l'Île d'Orleans in beautiful evening light.

On the Saguenay

We travelled down the river through the night, then turned up the Saguenay Fjord to begin our first full day of sightseeing with a leisurely cruise back down to the confluence with the St. Lawrence. On the way, under clearing skies, we spotted a few of the area's famous beluga whales along the shore. At Tadoussac we tendered ashore to the community's floating dock in the ship's fleet of Zodiacs and made our way to the local church for a welcome ceremony complete with snacks, drinks and music along with a few words from the mayor. We worked our way back to the ship taking in several of the town's attractions - including the exceptional Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre - along the way.

It rained while we were in Tadoussac, cancelling the town's plan for a beach bonfire to celebrate our visit, but it didn't dampen our spirits. One of my favourite memories of the trip is of walking through the town on my way to the ship, with a huge smile on my face, happy to be where I was at that moment. I looked up to see a member of the Adventure Canada expedition team walking in the opposite direction, wearing the same delighted grin!

Dessert at Reford Gardens

The following day brought a visit to Reford Gardens, a beautifully tended collection of plantings. Once privately owned, then operated by the Province of Quebec, the site is now under the control of a foundation headed by Alexander Reford, who served as the tour guide for our Road Scholar group. After a walk through the gardens, this group enjoyed a superb lunch prepared by the foundation's chef, who explained each course as it was served, beginning with a "bloom spoon" - a collection of flower petals and berries presented in the bowl of a spoon, designed to be consumed as a single mouthful. What a remarkable burst of flavour! This was followed by an asparagus and tulip salad, a choice of Reford Gardens lamb or fresh turbot, and a tempting dessert that was flavoured with lemon geranium.

We returned to the ship to take in some of the excellent on-board programming.

Hotel Tadoussac

Adventure Canada's Mighty St. Lawrence cruise has been named by National Geographic as one of its “50 Tours of a Lifetime".

Next: continuing down the St. Lawrence bound for Gaspé.

"We went because they needed answers"

On February 17, 2013, the fishing boat Miss Ally, with five men aboard, was lost in a storm off the South Shore of Nova Scotia. The hull of the craft was sighted, but searchers chose not to examine it right away. At the request of the families of those on board, a full day before "official" crews examined the hull of the Miss Ally, four divers from Shelburne County had been to the hull to provide answers for those grieving families. Please follow this link to look into the faces of these true heroes of the community. Their heartfelt gift was to help in the only way they could.

An Eighteenth-Century Inn

I recently had the pleasure of staying in a remarkable B&B, Lunenburg's Lennox Tavern. The building dates from 1791 and stands at the corner of Fox and Cornwallis Streets, not far from the impressive Lunenburg Academy. Lovingly restored by owner Robert Cram, the simple yet imposing Georgian structure dominates its setting. Robert has undertaken the inn's restoration himself, and was pleased to point out some of its many unique features. He

bought the place in its bicentennial year, 1991, after it had spent many years as a rundown apartment building. Its restoration has been a labour of love for Cram; remarkably, much of the original plaster, woodwork and doors and windows remained. These were supplemented with items bought at yard sales and antique shops and salvaged from derelict houses.

Cram visited historic homes and museums, and pored over architecture books and magazine articles on historic restoration. He discovered coins beneath the floorboards, and one dated "1791" embedded in the upper course of masonry in the fieldstone cellar, in keeping with German tradition of dating a house. He outlines the steps in the renovation here.

Today's guests have the opportunity to choose from four comfortable guest rooms furnished with antiques; two have ensuite bathrooms while the others share bathroom facilities. A hearty and varied hot breakfast is served in

the old Tavern's taproom, with its stenciled floors, based on the original design, traditional "dresser" style cupboard with an array of china platters, and its handsome fireplace. Stenciled chairbacks add interest to the seating in this room that's filled with natural light. Lennox Tavern is located on a quiet side street, away from the bustling scenes of Lunenburg's waterfront tourism district but within easy walking distance of downtown's historic streetscapes. It makes for an interesting and comfortable departure from mainstream hotel accommodation, and Robert Cram's passion for this long-term restoration project makes him a fascinating host.