Celebrating the Links With Ireland

Newfoundland and Labrador's Avalon Peninsula is the site of the largest concentrated migration in the Irish diaspora; it's estimated that as many as 80% of Newfoundlanders have some Irish ancestry on at least one of their family trees. Much of the landscape is reminiscent of Ireland, and even the voices of the people echo the patterns of Irish speech. Some of the most Irish regions of this very Irish place are found on the southern half of the Avalon Peninsula, located in the southeast corner of the Island of Newfoundland. The most predominant dialect here stems from the southeast corner of Ireland: Counties Waterford, Wexford and Cork. It's not unusual to find communities that treasure and celebrate that Irish heritage through festivals, theatre and community concerts. In this most Irish corner of Newfoundland, I attended a St. Patrick's Day Concert that drew tight the Celtic knot of this link with every note that was performed. There were singers, dancers, instrumentalists and skits featuring local performers. Almost the entire community turned out -- the hall was packed with locals who joined in on the choruses of the songs and whose laughter made the rafters ring during the comedy skits. The schedule was packed with a full two dozen acts, most from within the community but a handful from places an hour or so away -- "just for variety" as the organizers explained. The concert was followed by a dance with a live band; admission to both concert and dance added up to $7 per person! The performers shown below are Kelsey Arsenault, Eta Nash and Eddy Lundrigan -- and no, Arsenault isn't an Irish name, but her mother is an O'Keefe!

Branch and the Cliffhouse

I always look forward to visiting Branch, a picturesque community nestled on the shores of Newfoundland's St. Mary's Bay. The setting for this village of approximately 300 is striking: a river flows through pasture land where horses, sheep and cattle graze. Colourful fishing boats line the apron of the small, sheltered harbour. Scattered farms draw the eye upward to the surrounding hills, and waves crash in on a broad, curving beach front. Overlooking it all, from a vantage point high on a cliff, is a charming bed and breakfast, the Cliffhouse at Red Point.

What a setting! The inn is perfectly situated to enjoy sweeping views of the village, the Wester Cove, and Hayjer's Rock, whose name seems to be a corruption of "Hare's Ears". The Cliffhouse was purpose-built as a bed and breakfast, and its three well-appointed guest rooms have comfortable beds and private four-piece baths stocked with lots of thirsty towels. The amenities and the view would provide ample reasons to stay here, but the true treasures at the Cliffhouse are its hosts, Chris and Priscilla Mooney. Priscilla is the mayor of Branch, and its staunchest supporter.

She works tirelessly to further the interests of its residents, and is a vocal advocate for the area's culture and traditions. Her husband Chris is a naturalist interpreter at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve, a few miles away. Thanks to them, the Cliffhouse at Red Point provides an opportunity for not only accommodations and a hearty breakfast but great conversation that explores Branch's rich heritage and folklife, making a stay in this intriguing place even more memorable.