Change Islands

Change Islands can be found off the northeast coast of Newfoundland, near the larger and better-known Fogo Island. The community is made up of two principal islands and several outlying islets so closely linked by geography and economy that they are referred to as a unit, so Change Islands is an interesting and intriguing spot to visit. Well-maintained fishing stages with their storage buildings painted in the traditional red ochre make this spot an intriguing one for photographers. It retains not only the look but the feel of "old Newfoundland" with its tidy homes and winding roads.

Its place in Newfoundland and Labrador history is assured, since this is the place where the fishermen gather: it was here that Arthur R. Scammel was born. At 15, Scammel wrote the famous song "The Squid-Jigging Ground" describing a fishing scene in the waters just offshore. When Newfoundland joined Confederation in 1949, this was the song that rang out from Parliament Hill to welcome the Canada's newest province. My favourite way to explore Change Islands is with a combination of car and foot travel, making use of the many walking trails that lead to quiet coves and scenic overlooks. The local museums are definitely worth a visit for a glimpse into the islands' past, and the Interpretation Centre can provide information about island life and the geology of the area. Island life isn't the romantic dream that mainlanders sometimes imagine; the idea of having to take a ferry for all but the most basic errands can lose its polish in a very short time. It's best summed up by a resident of Bell Island, near St. John's, who put it this way: "I live on an island off an island. Seems like I have to cross water to pass water." Travel plans are entirely dependent on the ferry schedule, and weather of course has a huge impact, especially in winter.

For those of us who aren't ready to commit to the idea of full-time residence, though, this is a wonderful place to visit; there are ample options to fill one day or several. Of particular interest is the Newfoundland Pony Refuge, established to carry out a breeding program for the hardy ponies that were once common in Newfoundland but are now found in greatly reduced numbers. There will be more about Newfoundland ponies in a future post. Change Islands is accessed via Newfoundland and Labrador's Provincial Ferry Service from the port of Farewell. There are two restaurants, a small inn, and several shops in the community.